Monday, November 22, 2010

Siam Thailand Travel @ Wat po

        
          The traditional Thai massage might have its root s in antiquity, but its appeal is irresistibly modern.
         
          Traditional Asian treatments have been a source of wonder for many years, but since the popularity of the modern spa reached its peak several years ago, they have been widely sought after even in the west. Few would argue that Thailand is leading the way when it comes to the massage however - possibly something to do with the influence of Bangkok's long-established Wat Po.


           As well as being one of Thailand's most famous Buddhist temples, Wat Po (the Tample of the Reclining Buddha) in Phra Nakhon was also the country's first official Open University. Following extensive renovations during the Rama 1 era, Thais in the late 18th century would go there to learn all manner of skills, ranging from Thai herbs and Muay Thai, to local cooking, healing and massage. There was nothing formal about the instruction, and students coming away with any of the skills would not have been given an official certificate. In time, schools specialising in a single skill were set up, leaving only massage, herbal and traditional exercise programmes at Wat Po.


           Even the remaining courses at Wat Po were eventually moved away from the temple too, for practical reasons not commercial ones. The demand for training at Wat Po had skyrocketed along with the interest in spas and their treatments.
           Ten years ago , any remaining courses in the templebased Wat Po Thai Traditional Medical and Massage School (officially opened in 1955) were moved to the 'new' building - minutes from the famous temple. Down a street ancient enough to be used as a backdrop to a late 18th century film, the school's 'new' location is at the end of a small street lined on both sides with century-old Chinese shophouses. As if to prove it, a tiny ancient Toaist temple of not more than 10 squaremetres sits at the end, with lanterns so plentiful and large that almost all the daylight is blocked out.
            The new building is unassuming, almost basic and very very old - a surprise when you consider the establishment's global fame. At four storeys high, the school is entered via a still partly folded sliding door. There is no air conditioning here, with ceiling fans working hard to keep the open-walled interior cool. Uniformed clerks sit at a number of iron desks, with a row of plastic chairs for waiting on. The only source of colour comes from the corner on the right, a shop selling Thai spa products.
             Though old and basic, the school has been well-planned. The reception is on the ground floor, with what calls 'services' given on the first floor. On the day, there were at least 30 clients receiving treatments, on mattresses laid out in rows on the floor. Up another floor, there are the classrooms - one for courses in Thai, the other in English, and right at the top, another large 'treatment room' (for teaching) and offices for the managers and accounts.
             Contrary to popular belief, Thai massage has a lot more going for it than the general feel-good spa treatment, and has been used as an effective cure for 'diseases' as wide ranging as tired eye muscles, to helping people regain the use of their limbs.

Rue-Si Datton
             Courses or programmes at Wat Po start with the basic 30-hour programme to learn the traditional Thai massage, with a wide range of other courses too, including an oil massage, herbal compression massage, aromatherapy and a lesser known stretching system known as Rue-Si Datton, 're-learnt' from carvings on the walls of Wat Po. There are 80 positions in all, with carvings of only 24 remaining intact. The Rue-Si Datton system is thought to have been developed as a way for monks to cope with the long hours of  meditation required of them. More than a hundred years on, the carvings have provided a vital system of exercise that has been found  to have health and fitness benefits that go far beyond the requirements of long stretches of sitting. The temple is currently in the process of adding carvings of the missing positions to join the 24 others still remaining.
               Graduating students from the school not only feed Thailand's large number of spas, but also provide healing hands in the home environment. Some just want to be able to sooth the tired muscles of the elderly and loved ones arriving home weary after a 10-hour day at the office. For those who become therapists in a spa, however, massage becomes  a good way to earn an income.




Information:
Wat Po Thai Traditional Medical School
Maharat Road. Close to the river (about a half mile south of the Grand Palace)
Old City (Rattanakosin), Bangkok
Open daily: 8.00am - 5.00pm (massage available until 6.00pm)
Tel: +66(0) 2222 0933
http://www.watpomassage.com/
http://www.watpho.com/

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Siam Thailand Travel @ Pak Klong Tarad

                       It is always in motion, Bangkok's Pak Klong Tarad has never closed in the many hundreds of years since its opening.  From fresh blooms to stems that have been crushed underfoot, the market is the country's largest source of flowers, and a poignant glimpse of local culture - gritty in its purity, and natural to the extent of harshness.
                        Flowers from all over the place are sent to the Pak Klong Tarad, the flower market, where they await their next leg of their journey getting ever closer to the receiver.


                        In almost every cuture around the world, people use flowers to express their feelings towards others. And no matter what kind of flowers they are, each has a beauty and value of its own, causing the receiver to smile and brighten.


                        The market is not only identified by its flowers, however, and marks an important way of life that remains unchanged by technology and modern comforts. The people here are much the same as generations that have gone before them; they use a hand trolley to deliver their around the clock, 24/7.  This is a market that never sleeps, never stands still and never falls silent.
                         How to get there: Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Pak Khlong Talat Pier; bus numbers 2, 5, 8, 53, 60, 73, and 512 also go to the area. From Chinatown, you can take a tuk-tuk for a short distance to the market (around 30-40 baht).

Monday, November 8, 2010

Siam Thailand Travel @ Yaowarat Bangkok's Chinatown


 Before you go

The very best approach to Chinatown, even before you open a map, is to OPEN your mind to an alternative shopping reality.  This is a reality where, not only is it OK to get lost, it is probably ideal - who knows what treasure you might find around that next bend.
So open your mind; grab your water bottle; put your purse where it won't be picked; comfy shoes; loose clothes....it will be worth it.





1 Starting Point: The Ceremonial Gate at Odeon Circle 

                    As Confucius said, a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. It is good to have a starting point but go armed with the knowledge that it is a shopping 'experience'.  There is so much to see and absorb just by wandering around, so don't worry if you get 'off track'.





2 Yaowarat Road
                     A short walk up from Odeon Circle will bring you to many street stalls selling all things Chinese: lucky charms woven from red and gold satin; amulets carved from jade, and Oriental clothing of all descriptions - cheongsams,qipaoo and hats for young and old.  There are traditional medicine shops to wonder at, and if you maintain your appetite, some well patronised delicious smelling noodle and dumpling shops too. Indeed, in the evening, Yaowarat Road transforms into an al fresco stall-street market, brimming over with Chinese treats.  Yaowarat Road is called 'Golden Road' because there are more than 130 gold shops running along each side.  This makes Chinatown Thailand's largest gold trading centre.  Tang Toh Kang, who specialises in hand-crafted jewellery, is the oldest existing gold trader in Bangkok (since 1880).





3 Talad Kao (Old Market)
                   From fresh to preserved food products, Talad Kao has been Chinatown's marketplace  for well over a hundred years. Chinese chefs from restaurants around Bangkok come here each morning to find the best ingredients. If you are not a Chinese chef though, the variety may seem strange, mysterious and exciting. For the brave, nearby restaurants sell dishes with the ingredients that are found here.





4 Sampeng Lane (Wanit 1 Road)
 
                         Turn left from Yaowarat Road (you will see an ornate signpost directing you).  Stepping into Sampeng is entering a lane that time forgot. As unbelievable as it seems today, this hairbreadth wide lane was once Chinatown's main street. The crowded and bustling alley hosts stockladen motorbikes; caterwauling deliverymen lugging heavy carts; antique beggars and stoic shoppers all competing for that one square metre of lane.
Although Sampeng seems at first glance to be an overwhelming melange of everything from buttons to pool toys, the long alley can be roughly divided into three areas. Coming from the direction of the Odeon, the first section sells mostly inexpensive home items - plastic containers, pots, hairclips, flip-flops and party supplies. Leading up to Ratchawong Road, you will find stationery,exotic paper, crafts, toys, jewellery, and imitation bags and flowers. Cross over Ratchawong Road to find haberdashery, fabric, feathers, buttons and a myriad of glistening paraphernalia.
Special Mention : Sampeng Lane is the place to come at Cristmas, Chinese New Year and Halloween for decorations. Shops are open daily from 8.00am-9.00pm.





5 Thieves' Market (Nakorn Kasem)
                 A small market running between Charoen Krung (New Road) and Yaowarat Road. By all accounts, it's 'not as good as it used to be' (presumably when it actually traded stolen goods), but these days focuses on an interesting selection of second-hand goods, electronics, uniforms, musical instruments and the odd cement mixer.
Opening hours: 8.00am-5.00pm.





6 Little India, Pahurat Market
                  At the end of Sampeng Lane, cross over Chakrapet Road to the Pahurat cloth market. Don't stay on the main road; take a deep breath and wander into almost-not-there entrances which take you into a labyrinthine world of textiles (silk, cotton, cashmere and wool); and national costumes (Thai, Indian and Korean); as well as Indian God statuettes, incense and food supplies.

From map above,
Eat suggestion
A: Seafood from the grilled fresh seafood stalls (which are open at nigth)
B: Chalerm Buri Shark Fin, famous for its shark fin soup and fried goat's meat. Open daily 11.00am-10.30pm, Tel +66(0)2222 3029
C: Pad Thai Kikuya, cooked on the stove and wrapped in a banana leaf if you order to take home. Open Tue-Sat 6.30pm-10.00pm. Tel +66(0)8 1253 5961

Drink suggestion
D: Cotton Jazz Bar at Shanghai Mansion, a jazz bar designed in a romantic 1930's Shanghai style. Open daily from 6.30pm-10.30pm. Tel +66(0) 2221 2121
E: Eiah-Sae, a coffee shop which has been open for over 80 years. Open daily 5.00am-10.00pm. Tel +66(0) 2221 0549

Shop suggestion
F: Chao Krom Per, a traditional Chinese herb shop which has been open for over 100 years. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm Tel +66(0) 2221 3272
G: Tang Toh Kang, the first gold shop on Yaowarat area with a gold museum on 6th floor. Open daily 9.30am-4.00pm Tel +66(0) 2225 2898, or (0) 2224 2422 (reservation for museum)

Temple suggestion
H: Wat Trai-mitr, a temple in which the biggest golden buddha image in the world is situated. http://www.wattraimitr-withayaram.com/
I: Wat Mungkorn Kamalawat, a famous Chinese temple also known as Leng Noei Yi. http://www.lengnoeiyi.com/